Day 2: Wine Tasting in Golan Heights...

We had pizza for lunch, stopped by a shoe outlet, then headed to the Golan Height Winery for a tasting. We weren’t impressed with the style of the tasting (merely dropping off all the glasses at once with little explanation), but did like the wines. My roommate Andrea and I bought a few bottles to share for happy hour over the next few nights. I also bought Jimmy some olive oil.

This might not be the best photo, but it shows how we spent our evenings: in the cafe (the only spot with WiFi) at the hotel drinking wine while on our screens connecting with our families. I failed to take a photo of the buffets at either hotel, where we ate all of our breakfasts and dinners, but it’s still worth bringing up. The meals were very good and always kosher. Breakfast contained no meat other than fish and dinner contained no dairy or pork. There was always a lot of vegetables and salads at both meals. I especially loved the grilled eggplant!

Day 2: Conflicts with Neighbors...

As you know, Israel is a very small country that has problems with neighbors on several borders (to put it lightly). In the northeast is Syria, which could be vaguely seen in the haze from a viewpoint in the Golan Heights.

I must admit that just before leaving Holland I got quite nervous about whether it was actually safe to visit Israel. I was worried that there would be a heavy military presence as a constant reminder that there is not peace in the region. Luckily, I was wrong and never felt in danger. We did see two groups of soldiers that appeared to be doing training, but otherwise didn’t see any armed guards until we went through a checkpoint on the way to Jerusalem. 

Day 2: Banias Nature Reserve...

I was really looking forward to our hike in the Banias Nature Reserve. Unfortunately, it was raining (there’s been a drought so at least the locals were happy) and our hike was cut short. Here you see the ruins of the Temple of Pan.

This is the Banias Spring which feeds into Herman Stream, one of the tributaries of the Jordan River. We took a short walk along the stream to an old Roman bridge and flour mill.

Israel Day 2: Safed...

Ancient Jewish Texts -- Many of the Horribly Damaged are Awaiting Burial

Art Galleries of Safed

We had a rude awakening at 5 a.m. when someone knocked on all the doors in our hallway screaming, “Morning prayers!” Thankfully, Batya was assured that that particular group of Christian pilgrims was leaving that day and it shouldn’t happen again. Our first stop on our second day of exploring the Sea of Galilee area was the highest city in Israel, Safed. In the 50s an artist colony was established in the old city; it was fun walking around the many galleries. We also visited the Yossef Caro Synagogue, named after one of the most important and influential Jewish scholars of the past thousand years. It was rebuilt in 1860 after earthquakes destroyed the two earlier synagogues.

Day 1: Nazareth...

We stopped in an Arab bakery for a snack. The assortment was a bit overwhelming, so I just stuck with chocolate.

Don’t even want to think about why they sold ski masks in the market. Check out the boxes: Raisins of California. I was going to buy the kids some chocolate-coated nougats until I realized they were made in Holland.

Day 1: Church of the Annunciation...

In the late afternoon, we drove over an hour south to Nazareth, where Jesus grew up. Ironically, the largest church in the Middle East is in this city known as the “Arab Capital of Israel,” because it is the largest Arab city in this predominately Jewish nation. Approximately 60% of the inhabitants are Palestinian Arabs, who are Israeli citizens.

The Church of the Annunciation is a very unusual and interesting building. Built in 1969, the current two-story church is built over the remains of both a Byzantine (4th century) and a Crusader (12th century) church. At the bottom is this grotto, which is believed to be the childhood home of Mary and where the Angel Gabriel made the announcement that she would become the mother of the son of God.

Day 1: Holy Sites, Holy Business...

After lunch, we visited several holy sites including the hill where Saint Helena (the mother of Emperor Constantine) determined 300 years after the fact that Jesus gave the Sermon on the Mount, the longest piece of teaching from Jesus in the New Testament. The first church built on this site was in the 4th century; the church you see above is Roman Catholic Franciscan built in 1938. It was a rather basic church surrounded by lushly landscaped grounds.

We wandered around the ruins of Capernaum, a city from the 2nd century BC that Jesus once lived in. Batya seemed a bit skeptical of some of the claims about the old synagogue as this site is run by Franciscans rather than as a national archaeological site. We also visited the Church of the Multiplication with its lovely restored 5th century mosaic floor in honor of the miracle of Jesus feeding the multitudes with loaves and fish.

Day 1: St. Peter's Fish...

We lunched waterfront in Tiberias to have one of the local specialities: St. Peter’s Fish. While this type of tilapia had been fished for centuries from the sea, it is currently farmed because fishing has been temporarily banned due to overfishing. Benny, the driver of our mini-bus, proudly displays how well he was able to separate the bones from the fish.

Benny took our first full group photo: Batya, Marijke, Andrea, Linda, Al and me at the Sea of Galilee in Tiberias.

Day 1: Sea of Galilee

Batya did a great job interspersing holy sites with secular activities during our two days in the area surrounding the Sea of Galilee. We saw this 2,000-year-old boat that two fisherman found buried in the mud in 1986 when the tide was low due to a drought. It was fascinating to watch a video of the race against time to excavate it before it crumbled away once exposed to air. Apparently the Vatican would like to get their hands on it because it was from the time of Jesus (and is known as the Jesus Boat), but the Ginosar Kibbutz has no plans to give it up.

Next, Batya pulled some strings and managed to get us a private ride on a wooden boat; we got a lot of stares as we walked past all the lines of tourists. It was corny yet sweet when one of the crew raised an American flag while playing the US National Anthem during the 20-minute cruise.

Israel Day 1: Ginosar Kibbutz...

One of the Larger Houses at Ginosar Kibbutz

Our first day was a travel day. Flying with El Al, the national Israeli airline, wasn’t that different than other airlines except for the guards with Uzis at the security check at the gate. Going through passport control was also easy, but I felt bad when I told the immigration officer I didn’t want a stamp in my passport (just in case we travel to a country not on friendly terms with Israel) and he said that wasn’t very nice. After we arrived, we had a two-hour drive to our hotel; luckily the hotel kept the buffet open late for our arrival at 8:30 p.m. The next morning, our Israeli adventure started along the shores of the Sea of Galilee, the lowest freshwater lake in the world at 700 feet below sea level. We stayed for three nights at the Ginosar Kibbutz Hotel and began our tour next door with a walk through the Ginosar Kibbutz.

View of Ginosar Kibbutz

Kibbutzim were founded on the concept of building a society where everyone gave their all and received what they needed. Today, there are 256 kibbutzim, many of which have been privatized, with approximately 106,000 occupants producing 40% of Israel’s agriculture. Many kibbutzim have expanded their operations into tourism and run hotels; Ginosar Kibbutz also grows bananas and mangos and runs a medical equipment manufacturing plant. Batya said the most difficult part of growing up on a kibbutz was sleeping away from her parents.

Batya Leaving the Ginosar Kibbutz Hotel

A Glimpse of Israel...

Orthodox Jews in Old Jerusalem on the Sabbath

Frankly, Israel wasn’t really on my radar as somewhere to visit. Then Batya came to do a presentation at the AWC about a tour she was leading for the American Women’s Club of Amsterdam in November 2011. She was born in Maryland, but her parents moved to Israel when she was young and they lived on a kibbutz until she was ten. After moving around the world, she eventually settled in Israel where she became a tour guide with her Dutch husband. They now live in Holland and lead occasional trips back to Israel. Having an American expat lead a small group of expats around her adopted home seemed too unique of an opportunity to pass up. Thankfully, Jimmy gave me a hall pass to go.

Stations of the Cross along the Via Dolorosa -- 
Station 6 where Veronica wiped Jesus’ Face

It wasn’t until our group met at the airport that it dawned on me that my fellow participants might be interested on going on a religious pilgrimage and that our desires for the trip might not mesh. I took a quick poll and it was a relief to discover that the five of us were like-minded (four Jews and one ex-Lutheran). Getting to know my fellow travelers was definitely a highpoint of the trip.

A Mix of Jewish and Arabic Goods in the Muslim Quarter

Those Crazy Zwarte Piets...

After volunteering at the payment table at the AWC Holiday Bazaar, I went to watch the Sinterklaas Parade. It was cute to see so many little kids in costumes waiting alongside the route in hopes of getting some kruidnoten (ginger cookies). It was the usual zaniness with Zwarte Piets using every possible method of transportation. Unfortunately, I missed taking a decent photo of Sinterklaas, who arrived riding a white horse. For a very funny take on this Dutch tradition, check out David Sedaris’ Six to Eight Black Men. 

Too Much Punch for Judy...

Veronica is enjoying taking Drama as a GCSE option. She went with her class to see a Dutch version of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Luckily she knew the story well and her Dutch must be improving because she really loved it. She also performed with three classmates in front of the Year 10 (9th grade) parents in a short skit. It was very strange seeing her play the part of a drunken floozie and especially funny when the four of them sang the Hash Hymm: Swing Low, Sweet Chariot. You can see it for yourself here. While parts are quite humorous, it’s no surprise by the title that it doesn’t have a happy ending.

Travelling in Style...

I’d originally planned on renting a dress, but Terri convinced me to buy this dress instead and I’m so glad she did. I must admit that this dress made me feel more glamorous than I’d ever felt before. Maybe that’s why I thought it was extra funny that we took the tram home from the Ball. It was very fun doing a photo shoot once the car emptied out.

236th Marine Corps Birthday Celebration...

This year’s Marine Corps Ball was held at the Nieuwe Kerk (new church), built in 1656. What a great venue! Dinner was served on the main floor where the services were held until the church became a concert hall in 1969. After dinner, we danced in what was once the crypt. The AWC had a great turnout, but only the real party animals were still around when Jimmy took photos at 11p.m.

Playing Photographer in Clingendael Park...

It might be embarrassing to admit, but I still use my camera on auto 99% of the time. Luckily, it’s a good camera and can make up for much of my lack of photographic skill (and it helps that I can do basic fixes on Photoshop, if necessary). The girls are also pretty good subjects, so I manage to get some decent shots.

Veronica knows how much I like reflections and she pointed out this cool one so I could capture it. She’s starting to get into photography now that she has our old camera.

Fall in The Hague...

After years of photographing other people, Jimmy thought it was finally time to hire a professional photographer to photograph us. He’d been watching fall arrive for several weeks as he cycles through Clingendael Park on the way to work and knew that the time was right to get outdoors for some family portraits. Luckily, Vinita Salome had the flexibility to meet us in the park at the last minute. Hats off to Vinita for managing to capture us surrounded by the beauty of fall, but without being able to tell that I wanted to kill Ashlynn because she was being a pain. 

More Fall Family Portraits...

Wicked Day...

Here the girls are with Zoe Rainey, who played Nessarose, Elphaba’s crippled sister who becomes the Wicked Witch of the East.

After the show, we had hung around the stage door in hopes of seeing some of the stars. We had a nice chat with Niall Sheehy, who was Fiero’s understudy. It was nice to see him again in good lighting.

For the second time that week, Veronica was asked questions by reporters. We know that she and Jimmy were cut from the report in Stratford because Jane’s parents had watched the news. We have no idea if or where this second report was to air.