EBC Day 7: Reaching Lobouche...

The rest of the trail was Nepali Flat, with an easier gradient. I was still ridiculously slow, so Chandra took Terri, Carlin and the rest at a faster pace, and Ishor and Kent stayed with me.

When Ishor started asking us how much longer we wanted to go, it was a hint that we were finally approaching Lobuche at 16,500 feet (5,030 meters), for a net gain of 2,550 feet (780 meters).

As with our previous two days, there was no 3G or WiFi when we arrived at our teahouse: Oxygen Altitude Restaurant & Home. We were now higher than any mountain in Western Europe with only Mt. Elbrus in Russia being higher than EBC in continental Europe.

The two books I read about trekking to EBC both described Lobuche in horrible terms, including a “shit pit,” so we were pleasantly surprised. Although our rooms were not ensuite, they were much nicer than last night’s room with a beautiful view, a desk, hooks, a mirror and bed lights. Before laying down to take a power nap, I figured it was finally time to try the Peruvian altitude sickness medicine made from coca leaves that a friend gave me after she went to Machu Picchu. My head was still okay, but my heart continued to race even while seated. I crossed fingers that I would be okay in the morning as the next day is our big day: trekking to EBC.

Things fell a bit apart when we did our evening oxygen test. The minimum should be 77, but I was at 55. I started to cry, which didn’t help things as everyone said encouraging words. Carlin insisted that I take a dose of Diamox, the altitude sickness medicine prescribed by our travel doctors. I was hoping not to have to take it as the side effects were frequent urination and tingling fingers, but I gave in. I went to bed early hoping that I would feel better in the morning.